IN THIS MONTH'S JUICE BOX...

Labouré-Roi, Mâcon-Villages St. Armand 2004 - The region known as the Mâconnais, located in the southern portion of Burgundy, is famed for its Chardonnay grapes (along with Charollais cattle) which comprise two-thirds of the over 15,000 acres planted. The variety thrives on the high limestone content of the granite soils which make-up the landscape of rolling hills, meadows and glades. While the House of Labouré-Roi dates back to 1832, it was only after 1974, when direct descendant Armand Cottin took over management, that the company, under his dynamic leadership, grew to become the third largest source of Burgundy wines. Their achievements are based on a determination to guarantee better quality through modernization while still preserving traditions, as well as through a close working relationship with their growers. Cottin spent many years canvassing vineyards in his quest for the perfect grapes for this wine and it is because of this “pilgrimage” that the wine was dubbed “St. Armand.” This is a medium-bodied white, the color of straw tinted with gold; its bouquet is floral and fresh with notes of honey, herbs and butter. With apply and citrus-kissed flavors, the crisp acidity is softened by a secondary, or malolactic fermentation. Serve with fish, poultry, white meats and fresh cheeses.
St. Urbans-Hof, Riesling QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2005 - Nikolaus “Nik” Weis is the third generation of the Weis Family to manage the St. Urbans-Hof Estate Winery, which was founded by his grandfather over a half century ago. The estate grows and vinifies its wines exclusively from the Riesling grape. Great care is taken in the vineyard to adhere to the belief that the truest expression of a wine’s quality lies in the authenticity of its origin. Organic fertilizers are utilized in order to maintain the natural balance of the soil. Most importantly, yields are kept at low levels in order to achieve intense and well-structured wines. For optimal flavor development, leaves are thinned and grapes are harvested as late as possible to allow for maximum ripening. All grapes are hand picked and carried from the vineyard in traditional, shoulder-mounted baskets called hotten to ensure optimal fruit quality. Just as important as the great length taken to deliver the best possible fruit from the vineyard is the careful attention given to the proper treatment of the grapes by the cellarmaster. All of this effort results in a Riesling redolent with aromas of mineral and smoke matched by passion fruit and mango flavors. This broad, opulent QbA is balanced on the soft side, yet there’s lasting intensity on the finish.
Domaine de Fondrèche, Côtes du Ventoux Rosé “L’Instant” 2005 - A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, this fine value is satin-textured, light to medium-bodied and delivers fresh, expressive flavors of red fruits. This wine’s pretty, transparently pale, rose-petal-pink color belies its full aromas and flavors. Ripe and fresh strawberry aromas waft from the glass, accented by an elusive, characteristic whiff of herbes de Provence. Crisp and bright on the palate, fresh berry fruit is nicely balanced by zippy acidity, full texture and body unexpected in a wine that looks delicately pink but “drinks red.” L’Instant is about as good as rosé can be from southern France.
Bodegas y Viñedos Artazu, Navarra Tinto “Artazuri” 2003 - This 3,000 case cuvée must be tasted to be believed. It tastes like a far more expensive bottle of wine. This is Juan Carlos López de La Calle’s (Artadi’s winemaker) project in the northern cool zone of the Navarra viticultural area. Made from 75 year old Grenache vines, and aged in both tank and old wood foudres, this dark ruby/purple-colored effort is sumptuous and opulent. With gorgeously perfumed aromas of strawberries, blackberries, and cherries, tremendous purity of fruit, a medium to full-bodied texture, and a finish that remains light on its feet, it is a Spanish Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Robert Parker’s 92-point review of the 2001 Artazuri resulted in the vintage selling out within a week of its arrival in Maine, so enjoy the ’03 while it lasts.
União das Adegas Cooperativas do Dão, Vinho Regional Beiras - Beira Alta “Irreverente” 2003 - With Irreverente, UDACA decided to produce an alternative wine—alternative both in terms of content and presentation. To be irreverent is to open new horizons, to trace new paths, to provide a fresh outlook for the future. This wine is the result of a careful selection and vinification of various Touriga grape varieties—Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Roriz and Jaen. It has a ruby color with shades of burgundy; the aroma is of ripe plums, black cherries and blackberries mixed with a touch of cocoa and spices. To the palate it is round and complex, giving it personality and distinction. Irreverente is another fine Portuguese value that demonstrates just how far and how fast cooperatives are raising the quality level of their export wines.
Falesco, Umbria IGT Rosso “Vitiano” 2004 - Falesco was established in 1979 with the principal aim of rediscovering and enhancing the value of Lazio’s traditional varietals. Several years later it is impossible to list all of the accolades bestowed upon owner, Riccardo Cotarella, who is without a doubt one of Italy’s finest winemakers. Located 50 miles from Rome, Falesco’s vineyards are situated in the most prestigious areas around the Umbrian–Lazian border. Vitiano Rosso is a blend of 33% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 34% Sangiovese grapes grown on the Umbrian side of the border. Vitiano is vinified in stainless steel tanks and aged in Nevers oak barrels for 3 months before being bottled. This is an exuberant young red with explosive, luscious aromas. The wine has a wonderful deep, ruby red color with a wide range of organoleptic qualities. It is rich in polyphenols and has balanced acidity. This versatile red is at it’s best in its youth when the fresh fruit character is most evident. Vitiano is a perennial value.